When I moved to Paris, I had been reading Foucault's Pendulum.
One of the first things I did on arriving was head for the Conservatoire des
Arts et Métiers, also known as the Musée National des Techniques, on the rue
St. Martin. I'm doubly glad now that I did, because shortly after I was there they
closed and renovated it, and I gather that most of the places that Eco described
in the book have been moved or are gone altogether. I wandered around listening to the
creaky wooden floor announce my movements, with my Picador paperback in hand, and
I stood in the periscope-projector room and I saw the lion made out of glass
and I watched the Pendulum prove that the earth rotated (I was convinced
immediately). Then I read the last part of the book again (the avenue
Elisée-Reclus is just around the corner from where I live) and I went to
go and look at the Tower.
Eco calls it a "foul metal spider" and I think that's grossly unfair; I see the tower nearly every day of my life, and however vile my mood, I almost always take a moment and think, "how beautiful". It's especially lovely up close at night, of course (they turn off the lights at between midnight and two, depending, and it's funny - I always thought that the extinguishing of the tower would be a majestic thing, that they would slowly fade down to black, but no - all the lights go off in banks, toc, toc, toc, like, "last guy out of the Tower turn off the lights and lock the door," and it's anticlimactic. Once someone must have missed a switch, because I looked out at four in the morning, and half the southwest leg was lit but nothing else) but even in the daylight it has never been anything to me but warm, light, and friendly. I remember once writing a letter to a friend while sitting on the grass by the fountains of the Palais de Chaillot (just across the river from the tower), looking up at it, and writing to my friend that I felt a sense of well-being and security, as if it was some sort of giant iron sentinel, protecting us all. |
Anyways, I went to the tower, and looking up, positioned myself directly beneath the top, equidistant from the four pylons in the hopes that the strange energy field that the tower taps was being channeled to the centre, like that weird zone in the middle of a pyramid where knifes sharpen themselves, but I didn't get anything at all. Not so much as a local AM radio station. I was disappointed but I got over it. |
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